Fornalutx, Majorca... land of oranges, sunshine & stacked stones

IT was the early Spring of 2012, the end of my daughter’s senior year was rapidly approaching (along with some very serious studying for her Baccalaureate exam). February and March in Paris had been very icy and cold so, when the opportunity to stay at a friends fabulous flat on the beautiful (warm) island of Majorca arose, we jumped on it. In hindsight we both wished we’d stayed longer than three days.

ADMITTEDLY it’s pretty hard not to feel remarkably grateful when, after a quick flight from cold, drizzly Orly, (via Barcelona to Palma) followed by an hour drive in a teeny rented Smart Car, one winds up here: Fornalutx, Majorca, Spain. It didn’t take long to relax and take a walk… after all, we had Mr Pidds, our trusty four legged companion encouraging us. Having forgotten his collar and leash, our 1st order of business was to find these things, and pronto. (2020 note: While Mr Pidds no longer sports that bushy moustache, he does still wear the leather collar from Majorca)

HERE is where we stayed… (links can be found at the bottom of this essay)

The courtyard Chez Mark is cool and welcoming

THE kitchen was splendid in our apartment, tho I honestly have no recollection of cooking. (when the owner is Mr Willi’s Wine Bar in Paris would one expect less?) We did make tea in the mornings, but there was important studying going on so we didn’t venture out until our tummies demanded food. With a busy cafe just down the street, that wasn’t hard to accomplish. The coffee was strong and the orange juice squeezed to order from sweet local citrus.

AFTER lunch, and more studying… we would explore the narrow cobbled streets that snaked up the hills between ancient stone buildings. We met sheep and chicken, saw many orange and lemon trees that smelled divine and wondered about the generations of people who’ve lived here; constructing impressive houses, paving the streets and stacking stairs with so many stones.

THE retaining walls are impressive, and they are everywhere.. sometimes disguised as stairs or menageries.

Seriously: the stone work?

EVERYWHERE you look there are citrus trees, yards are full of trees achingly full of fruit. Mainly orange. The air is intoxicatingly rich with the scent of orange blossom. It is impossible to miss. (THAT I remember) Dates grow in Fornalutx as well. We saw lots of evidence. Even the many olive trees are massive and ancient.

OUR wanderings led us to unexpected places with great views.

THROUGH winding narrow alleys, into tiny flower filled squares, past fountains, from shade to sunlight and back again.

The tiles say: Fountain of the PlazaMany thanks to @kats.from.,scratch for the translation from Catalan to English. (check out her Instagram for awesome cooking videos and recipes!) — The tiles say: Fountain of the Plaza
Many thanks to @kats.from.,scratch for the translation from Catalan to English. (check out her Instagram for awesome cooking videos and recipes!)

RESTAURANT meals are abundant and simply prepared with local products. You can’t go wrong with the local lamb or pork; wine is poured generously and people are incredibly kind. It’s comfortably warm in the evenings, making the walk home feel both exotic and safe…

ON the last morning, with ample time before our flight, we headed to the languid port town of Soller which was sleepy and truly beautiful. Then it was off to the airport and a much anticipated long layover in Barcelona - which is a story for another time!

PS: Links to Marks gorgeous vacation apartments can be found after the final photo!